Tea the way nature intended it to be

By Kim Elkington

From Toronto to the bush in the Bonnechere Valley

In 1995, I was co-managing a wonderful bookstore called the Omega Centre in Yorkville, filled with self-help books, spiritual teachings, and workshops. While I loved the creative exchanges, I increasingly felt a pull to leave the noise of the city and immerse myself more fully in the creative voice of nature — to see how I would respond in a quieter, more elemental environment.

It was there that I met artist and herbalist Steven Martyn, who lived profoundly close to nature and the spirits that inhabit it. Around the same time, I had begun writing a column for Vitality Magazine called Sacred Journeys (1996–2020), which was written as an open diary of my ongoing journey toward wholeness.

Inspired and ready, I packed my bags and headed north with Steven. We lived on the edge of Algonquin Park, deep in the bush, without running water or electricity. Life quickly became physical and immediate — hauling water uphill from the river, canoeing and hiking to gather food, cooking over an open fire. These experiences move you swiftly from dependence to self-responsibility. In that restorative, connected place, the seeds of the tea company were quietly planted.

Seeking inner directions

The initial inspiration came from Sweet Gale (Myricia Gale), a mild stimulant native to our region that brings you closer to the surface of consciousness when you switch from one dream to another. Steven “knew” — through listening to and interacting with plants — that Sweet Gale could help with dream recall. The plant grows where land meets water, where roots intermingle beneath the surface. That liminal quality felt significant.

The first time I drank this tea, three of us were staying at the cabin and we set the intention to share our dreams in the morning. Not only did we remember them, but we noticed striking similarities: each dream involved a reptile beneath a building, a figure wearing orange, and a bridge over water. I had no idea what it meant, but I was deeply moved by the idea that a plant native to Ontario and Quebec might support dreaming — perhaps even shared dreaming.

Starting the Algonquin Tea Company

Soon after, with the help of a Canada Works grant, through which I learned how to create a fully researched business plan, Steven and I launched our first three teas. CBC interviewed us, we sold out quickly, and the Ontario Natural Food Co-op took on our line. Suddenly, we were in motion. We rented an office — complete with electricity, a phone line, and a fax — and Algonquin Tea was officially in business.

Eventually, we acquired land in Golden Lake where we could grow plants organically. From the very beginning, we followed the signs, honoured the spirits, and expected a certain kind of magic. On our first official Sweet Gale harvest, two loons took turns diving beneath our canoe, calling out as they traveled down the centre of the river. It felt celebratory rather than territorial — a welcome. It came as no surprise to later learn that loons are associated with Sweet Gale as a spirit animal.

Cooperating with Nature

As a city girl, I learned many lessons. After harvesting a plant, when my hands were still coated in its oils, the first images I saw as I drifted toward sleep were geometric patterns — which, upon closer inspection, mirrored the structure of the leaves or flowers. These images were often followed by an animal or elemental presence associated with the plant. I hadn’t been taught this by my ancestors, but I was learning through direct relationship. Nature is always communicating; it’s our disconnection that makes this easy to forget.

As our awareness expanded, we also had to learn how to walk softly while running a business. Early on, we committed to harvesting only local plants, taking a portion of one year’s growth and not returning to a site for two years. Plants that were not abundant in the wild were grown organically on our farm. As demand increased, we expanded harvesting locations rather than intensifying pressure on any one area.

Harvest bounty
Sweetgrass

Certified organic

We met Larry Lenhardt, an early pioneer of organic agriculture in Ontario, and became certified organic through OCPP. Thirty years later, we remain certified with ProCert (OCPP became ProCert in 2009). From the start, our primary market was health food stores, where organic integrity was deeply valued. I remember a buyer at Whole Foods telling us how unique our teas were and how much customers appreciated what we were doing.

I remain a strong advocate for organic agriculture. While lab-grown and genetically modified foods often avoid disclosure, organic producers are held to rigorous standards — and consumers trust that organic logo for good reason.

Growing the tea selection

After five years, we expanded to six teas, including blends for sleep, nervous exhaustion, and gentle energy without caffeine. My personal favourite is Sacred Blend, made from white pine, sweetgrass and sage, known for promoting tranquility, focus and a sense of communion. Add a couple drops of maple syrup, and I am instantly transported back to the quiet magic of a pine forest.

As we grew, we also began sourcing from other organic growers. It has been a pleasure working within that community. I’m grateful for the support of growers like Brenna at Hedgeview Organics and for Organic Connections, who now process our teas. Since COVID, many of us have noticed a shortage of organic herbs — once-plentiful plants are harder to find. Whether due to certification costs, changing markets, or pre-buying by large buyers, it’s a reminder of how fragile these local systems can be.

About ten years ago, now running the company solo, and wanting a line of caffeinated tea, I launched Wild at Heart. Each blend has a base of black, green, oolong, or chai tea, with local wild herbs at the heart. Starwater, for example, combines Japanese green tea with balsam fir tips, and rose and grapefruit oils. I especially love working with trees like black spruce, which Cree elders appreciate for its calming, centring qualities.

During the pandemic, interest surged around eastern white pine following an online frenzy sparked by a European study. Whatever the reason, Pine itself is a remarkable source of vitamin C, and I was glad to see renewed appreciation for a native tree that has long been part of our Sacred Blend.

There are so many plants native to Northern and Eastern Ontario and Quebec that are rarely represented in the commercial tea market, which tends to reflect Chinese, Indian, and European herbal traditions. Our work has always been about bringing local plants into wider awareness.

Some lessons learned

Three decades into this project, my advice is simple: grow organic, and harvest with reverence. We place enormous pressure on ecosystems we barely understand. I believe wildcrafters should be licensed, as it’s vital to understand a plant’s habits and vulnerabilities. Wild leeks, for example, must be harvested from the centre of a patch, or the entire stand can die. Without sustainable practices, knowledge and respect for plants and habitats, we can do great harm — unintentionally but thoroughly.

As for the future, there’s no end in sight for the tea company. Personally, as I head into my seventies, I would love to eventually sell the business and spend more time smelling the flowers than weeding them. Still, there is no greater joy than walking beneath a blue sky through a field of wild bergamot and anise hyssop in full bloom — no phones, no computers, just summer life buzzing all around. When you work this closely with plants, they know you. And that kind of relationship fills you with gratitude and a quiet, unshakeable optimism.

Sweetfern

Kim Elkington
Algonquin Tea/ Wild@Heart/Pine Tea
106 Augsburg Rd, Eganville ON
spirit@algonquintea.com

Note: those interested in learning about indigenous plants, forest agriculture and sustainable wildcrafting contact Steven or Megan at their school: sacredgardener.com