Rare & Endangered Food Plants

When you flip through the newest seed catalogues or peruse the seed racks at your local big box store, you’d be forgiven for assuming that there is a plentiful supply of seeds available for any type of gardening endeavour. But you’d be mistaken.

You see, our seed supply in Canada and around the world is skewed towards the breeding of plant varieties that can be patented, whose breeders retain control of the germplasm (i.e. genetic material, such as seeds) and receive royalties on their sales. Modern plant breeders’ focus (most of whom work in corporate breeding labs) is on the protection of intellectual property rights of breeders, which includes limiting farmers’ and growers’ access to the seeds and their genetics.

That’s why you see so many “F1” notations on varieties – these are the first generation of seeds from a modern plant breeding project and, as such, are covered by patent protection. These types of seeds are, indeed, plentiful – if you can afford them and don’t mind buying them every year. You see, the seeds from F1’s will not come “true to type”, meaning that the plants that grow from the seeds will not all resemble their parents.

Why? Modern breeding selects two parents who exhibit a particular desired trait and inbreeds each line repeatedly until the desired trait is most strongly evident, at which point the two lines are crossed. F1’s are the seeds of that first crossing: they’re highly productive and, as the first cross, genetically unstable. Because this breeding process relies so much on inbreeding two parent lines, the resulting genomes (genetic traits) of the offspring are very narrow.

This is a modern issue and, by modern, I mean in the last few decades. Before the introduction of scientific plant breeding, new varieties of plants were developed by farmers, home gardeners, and seed companies in crop fields of hundreds of plants. Plants with desirable traits were selected from the field and their seed gathered for planting the next year. Doing this successively over a number of years resulted in the new traits becoming stabilized and a new variety developed.

Quite often, home gardeners (and almost every family had a home garden) would save the seeds of varieties they treasured, growing them out over the years until they became adapted to their local growing conditions. This type of plant breeding is called Classical Breeding and it results in open-pollinated plants that are not patent-protected and whose seeds are freely available for further research and development. Because many parent plants are used, open-pollinated plants have broad genomes with complex genetic profiles.

Heirloom and heritage plant varieties are all open-pollinated and are, in fact, living gene banks for cultivated plants. They preserve a wide diversity of genetic traits and are often used for breeding projects. However, they’re disappearing at an alarming rate and taking their genes with them.

Why, when heirloom varieties are so important, are they disappearing? To answer this question, we need to look to some global trends: the increasing consolidation of the commercial seed industry, an increased focus on ownership of seeds through intellectual property rights, and the increasing use of technology in plant breeding.

Image Source: Howard, P., Michigan State University & Stromberg, A., Lund University, https://philhoward.net

The infographic above, created by Professor Paul Howard of Michigan State University, illustrates the increasing consolidation of the global seed industry. He points out that between 1994 and 2009, the four largest agrochemical companies’ market share of seed sales expanded from 21% to 54%.

When large seed companies take over a smaller competitor, they will often destroy the germplasm of old, open-pollinated varieties of vegetables because they either consider them redundant, non-profitable or competition for some of their ‘modern’ varieties. Also note that these four companies also control 62% of agrochemical sales, so the focus of breeding programs becomes the development of varieties that need (and are resistant to) high applications of pesticides and herbicides to flourish.

The current trends in modern corporate plant breeding place increasing emphasis on breeders’ ability to impose intellectual property rights on varieties and on the use of genetic manipulation, meaning that open-pollinated varieties are of little interest to them. Reduced distribution of heirloom, open-pollinated vegetable varieties is part of their growth strategy.

The following infographic demonstrates the loss of agricultural biodiversity in the U.S. over the last 100 years. The branches of the tree represent the number of varieties of key vegetable crops commercially available in 1903. The roots depict the number of varieties of those same crops by 1983. The situation is similar in Canada and biodiversity is continuing to decline.

Image Source: John Tomanio, NGM Staff. “Loss of Genetic Biodiversity in U.S. Food Crops,” The Society Pages.

I have particular insight into this issue of loss of diversity and genetics as, for over 25 years, my husband and I operated an heirloom seed company (The Cottage Gardener Heirloom Seedhouse) whose mission was to save and reintroduce seeds of rare and endangered vegetables, herbs, and flowers. Although we have retired and closed the company, we still privately maintain our most rare and treasured varieties. Let’s look at some local examples. Each of these hard-to-find heirlooms has a connection to eastern Ontario or Québec. They’re all rare; some are endangered.

Nips’ tomato (77 days)

This hefty tomato is unlike any other tomato variety I have come across. Its story is a powerful example of the dedication of seed savers and preservationists. One year, while attending the Ottawa Seedy Saturday, we were approached by a young woman named Kaylie Gossen, clutching 4 tomato seeds wrapped in paper towel. She had been given seeds for this variety in 1995 by a nun at the Ursuline Convent in Saskatchewan. Sister Aquinas had originally received the seeds from a family of immigrants from the Dakotas in the 1950’s, who were on their way to settle in Nipawin (hence the name).

Nips tomato; Image source M.C. Brittain

The Sister maintained the variety for 40 years until she handed over that responsibility to Kaylie. Kaylie, in turn, was preparing for a move across the country and, concerned that the seeds would be lost in the move, asked us to continue the caretaking task. We accepted this honour enthusiastically (and with some trepidation, given the small number of seeds). But the seeds made it and we were able to reintroduce ‘Nips’ commercially several years ago. A quick internet search today reveals only one seed company currently offering this variety and they have lost the origin story.

Rideau’ tomato (70 days)

Bred in 1962 by the Central Experimental Farm in Ottawa from varieties Meteor and Urbana, this tomato is an early and heavy producer of gorgeous round, red fruit that vary in size from 5 – 10 oz. We obtained the seed from the Canadian Gene Bank and reintroduced it commercially. An internet search reveals only one source currently offering it – most offer a cherry tomato version that is not the original.

Rideau tomato; Image Source M.C. Brittain

Carlton’ tomato (70 days)

Another introduction from the Central Experimental Farm in Ottawa, this determinate variety was developed in 1952 from varieties Abel and Marglobe. This reliable short-season tomato is average-size with a sweet, mild flavour. Highly productive, it is able to tolerate variable growing conditions. I could only find one or two seed companies carrying it now.

Carlton tomato; Image source M.C. Brittain

Thibodeau du Comté Beauce’ bush bean (45 days snap; 70 days dry)

This excellent short-season bean is originally from Comté Beauce in Québec. It produces prodigious quantities of green beans dashed with purple early in the season and deep tan dry beans with burgundy flecks later. It produces well in both cool, wet conditions and hot, dry environments. This variety is available from several small seed companies, particularly in Québec.

Thibodeau du Comte Beauce bean; Image Source M.C. Brittain

Fortin’s Family’ bean (Wax/Dry; 55 days for fresh)

Another hardy heirloom from Québec, this remarkable variety was handed down by the Fortin family of Cap-Saint-Ignace for generations. The plants are high-yielding and can also be used as a dry bean, which is unusual for a wax bean. Only a handful of small, Canadian companies currently offer it.

Fortin’s Family bean; Image Source M.C. Brittain

The varieties outlined here are only a tiny sample of the rare and endangered Canadian food plants that are disappearing from mainstream seed catalogues and stores. I encourage you to search them out and plant them in your own gardens. Here are some good sources:

  1. Seeds of Diversity Canada – maintains a list of seed companies selling heirlooms and sponsors grow-out projects of rare plant varieties. This organization also publishes helpful resource information on saving seeds of open-pollinated plants. Supports Seedy Saturday events across the country. www.seeds.ca
  2. Salt Spring Seed & Plant Sanctuary – a charitable organization devoted to preserving important heirloom varieties. www.seedsanctuary.com
  3. SeedChange – a nonprofit organization dedicated to supporting small farmers around the world in reclaiming their traditional seed crops and improving crop resilience through Participatory Plant Breeding initiatives. Places an emphasis on seed and food security and sovereignty. Includes the Bauta Family Initiative on Canadian Seed Security. www.weseedchange.org
  4. Community Seed Libraries – check out your local library to see if they maintain a seed library for the community.

Mary Brittain
heirlooms@cottagegardener.com

Saving Our Agricultural Heritage